The owner of a wine bar in a Quartieri Spagnoli alley displaying tattoos of Maradona and Totò on his arm during the evening happy hour. Labyrinth of narrow streets, tall 17th century buildings and balconies (planned during the Spanish domination as the name tells), the district is the beating heart of Naples. Once a disreputable neighborhood, in recent years it has become a destination for tourists fascinated by its crumbling aesthetic but animated by an authentic and warm character. Naples, Italy. August 2020.