The Vespa rally took place in the middle of the night on a small island off the coast of Bali. 10,000 riders (Scooteristas) came from across the island to participate, their vehicles lined up in neat rows like a chorus line of cool. They came in all styles--vintage, new, tricked out, and practically pieced together--but the rider who showed up with a skull tied to his front end became the center of attention, quick.